After a 5 hour drive we made it Monze and our accommodation for the night. The Golden Pillow Lodge. We had stayed here in 2019 and it was clean and very reasonably priced. There was a Roadhouse next door with cold beer so I was happy.
What we weren’t happy about though was when we showed up to check in they didn’t have our reservation. Rather than wasting time trying to sort things out we paid for two rooms (fortunately they had two rooms) and unloaded our luggage.
The restaurant at the lodge was definitely not the type one would take a date to. The dinner menu was fish, chicken and something else so we made our way to the local Hungry Lion to pick up some take out chicken.
Back at the ranch we sat around a covered picnic table and ate an early dinner. The chicken from Hungry Lion is actually quite good and a dinner for four with 12 very meaty pieces with coleslaw and fries cost about $17.00 CAD.
A little later on I decided to pop out to the roadhouse for a couple of cold ones and met and chatted with the head of security at the establishment. His name was Wezly and he was a Rasata with dreads tucked under his tam/rasta cap. He asked if I would like to see them and of course I did but they weren’t what I expected.
The roadhouse was slowly getting busier and one side there were cloth bags containing pork lining the side of a bbq and on the other side another bbq for cooking additional goodies.
It was Friday night and the loud music didn’t stop until 4:00 am but fortunately our rooms were far enough away that music wasn’t too much of a bother.
Breakfast the in the restaurant the next morning was barely palatable so we choked down a few bites and departed to our final stop back in Kasane, Botswana.
We departed Chitake Springs on August 1st after a total of 6 amazing nights camping in the wilds of Mana Pools National Park and made our way to Wharthogs Camp near the shores of Lake Kariba in the town of Kariba Zimbabwe.
I say near the shore of the lake because the water level is at record lows. Where once you could stand on a small wooden platform at the edge of the property and see fish swimming is now a dried plain that extends about 500 metres until the water’s edge.
Waterbuck, Zebra and the occasional Wharthog grazed on the new found plain.
Wharthogs is a funky basic place with good food and cold beer and very nice “safari” style canvas tents where we spent the next two nights with hot showers and a semblance of civilization. And we usually had internet!
I won’t get into the difficulty we had finding the place, we didn’t have a Zimbabwean SIM card so no Google Maps but we made it after about 3 hours of hilly scenic driving on a good road to reach our destination.
Our plan was to go out fishing the next day for the elusive Tiger Fish, referred to as the Piraña of the Zambezi.
Lake Kariba is the largest man-made lake by volume in the world and was formed by the damming of the Zambezi River and the filling of the Zambezi Gorge.
It was the wrong time of year to catch the tigers but we hired a boat anyway and headed out onto the lake to catch the not so elusive Bream that are plentiful. We did head out onto the lake but continued to the shores of Antelope Island where we tied up to the shore and set our hooked worms into fairly shallow waters.
It didn’t take long and we started reelin in the Bream.(any Steely Dan fans!?)
It was great fun and after a couple of hours we made our way back to camp and kicked back for a little relaxation.
Kariba is located in the Charara Safari Area so wild animals roam freely. When the lake was at normal levels many animals would wonder into camp but with the lake so low they had no reason to stop by for a visit but you always hear the grunts and antics of the hippos in the distance.
The two nights passed quickly and we departed Kariba on August 3rd, crossed the Kariba border with little hassle and made our way into Zambia and a five hour drive Monze for a one night pit stop on our way back to Kasane, Botswana.
The last time we crossed into Zimbabwe at Chirundu in 2019 it took us more than two hours of a bureaucratic nightmare to get through. The biggest hassle was filling out the paperwork, several times, for the vehicle TIP (temporary import permit). This time around it was possible to actually fill in all of the vehicle details online on the Zimbabwean eTIP site. I did this in advance and received a confirmation number and this seemed to speed up the process. Along with a “helper” which cost 20 USD and we swore we wouldn’t use to help us this time it took us less than 1 1/2 hours to clear customs and be on our way. We were four very happy campers.
It took about two hours to reach the reception office at Nyamepi where we checked in and then proceeded to get two days worth of firewood.
This is not your typical split log type of wood. This is from the Mopane tree, long and wrangled, and sharp at the ends and extremely dense and heavy. It makes great long lasting fires but we had no idea how we were going to pack all this wood in the truck, which was essentially impossible.
I wish we had taken a photo. It’s the last thing you are thinking about when you’re hot and sweaty and anxious to get going. Anyway, we had a small roof rack with a ratchet strap so we slowly and strategically placed the heavy, sharp logs across the rack, most pointing front to back so the strap would hold them in place and then headed off for an 8 km bumpy drive to our camp, fingers crossed the logs and assorted very heavy wooden fire wood wouldn’t come crashing down on our windshield. It didn’t.
Mucheni #3 Exclusive Camp
What an amazing location! And a huge area all to ourselves with no other campers within at least 1 km.
There is no toilet other than a hole dug in the ground with a half metal barrel on top with a broken toilet seat surrounded by a corrugated pony wall. To use, one had to brush off numerous insect species and hold your breath. There was no water other than the river and our reserve tank on the truck for washing and all of our cooking was done over an open flame/embers.
Our site was situated along the banks of the Zambezi River. In front of us was the Zambezi Escarpment in Zambia.
We were located at the edge of the river bank and to our left, an open expansive flood plain which attracted a large variety of animals that came to graze including large herds of elephant that would walk down to the edge of the banks and the beginning of the plain that was no more than 40 feet away from us.
We had several memorable moments where elephants would wander over to within a few metres of us as we sat at our table having lunch or later on relaxing. We stayed calm. An absolutely incredible experience!
There was little to no moon so the stars were phenomenal.
We cooked over an open fire every night and sat in awe at the world around us.
On our last night we watched two lionesses walk past our camp.
This was a motivating factor to decide to hit the sheets early.
After a short while lying in our tent and the girls all cozy in the bush camper, all hell broke loose.
Elephants started trumpeting loudly, hyenas screaming to high heaven and loud lion growls permeated our surroundings and then all went quiet. Something wasn’t lucky and became the evening meal for the lions.
As joyce and I laid in our sleeping bags we noticed a strong stench as we heard some animal (s) wander closely past our tent.
We figured the hyenas were passing by us, smelly from the rotten meat they had probably eaten earlier, before one of their comrads became lion food that evening. The smell can also be associated with Lions. Either way, we lied in our sleeping bags listening and smelling the wildlife at 2:00 am. and enjoying every minute of it.
It is difficult to put into words so hopefully the below pictures will give you some idea of what we experienced at Mucheni 3.
Chitake Springs Exclusive Campsite #2
We reluctantly departed Mucheni on the 29th but we were definitely looking forward to our next two nights at Chitake Springs. This is lion and buffalo country and much has been written and recorded about this unique habitat in one of the wildest and untamed part of Africa.
As with Mucheni we needed to book this site a year in advance. Chitake more so because there are only two public sites available and one tour operated site.
We were initially hoping to book Chitake #1 as we read this was the best site however our site, #2 was a 5 minute walk to the source of the spring while you had to drive to the springs from #1 so in our opinion #2 was the best.
We hired an armed park ranger for our two night stay and did this for two reason. One, there were supposed to be many lions in the area and two, you are not allowed to walk in the area unless accompanied by an armed guide or ranger and to drive to the springs, about 2 minutes, would require packing up our bushcamper which would be way too much hassle.
We arrived at our camp around 1:00 pm and met our ranger.
His name was Robson. Seriously.
Before we could get organized Robson informed us that there were two lions nearby so in +33 deg. heat we trekked off down into the dry bed of the Chitake River, crossed the muddy water created by the spring, clamoured up the banks on the other side, sweating profusely and already feeling dehydrated.
We maybe saw the lions way off in the distance hightailing it into the thick bush.
Once back at our site and feeling lightheaded in the heat we set up camp, had a bite to eat and then took a short walk to the “Fig Tree”, a beautiful shaded area on the upper banks of the river overlooking the spring source and the huge worn path on the opposite side used by the buffalo to access the water from the spring.
The buffalo weren’t there but the river bed was full of elephant, probably 25 or more, impala, warthogs, baboon and an array of birdlife. It was a beautiful site to behold.
Once back at camp we stoked our fire and cooked my famous sliced potato, onion, garlic and butter foil-wrapped concoction and reheated delicious beef sausage that I had cooked the night before in Mucheni. We topped this off with canned baked beans and a side of cold beer and white wine for your quisessential camping grub.
Waking at sunrise everyday and sitting around watching wildlife takes is toll so we hit the sheets early and after a short while listened to the chorus of many lions roaring in the distance throughout the rest of the night.
Sunrise and..
A cup of Nescafe or two and a walk to the fig tree brought us into view of, absolutely nothing. No elephants, no impala, nada, zero. The wind was blowing and it was chilly outside and our ranger figured it was maybe too cold for the animals so we sat for a short while and walked back to camp for breakfast which we shared with a couple of very unafraid Crested Francolins.
At around 9:00 am, just after finishing up our breakfast Robson cocked his ear and told us the buffalo had arrived at the spring so off we rushed back to the fig tree, chairs in hand. This is what Chitake is all about minus the lions.
They stayed at the springs for about 45 minutes and then departed in a cloud of dust up the well worn banks and back into the forest.
After lunch we hiked up to an area with excellent views and a large swath of ancient and huge Baobab trees.
On our way back to camp in the early afternoon we stopped at the fig tree to see if there was any action at the springs, there wasn’t, but we did meet some South Africans who had been at Chitake #1 for a few days and were told stories about the lions that were staying right beside our camp with a recent kill a day earlier and some of the lion action they witnessed from the fig tree. Our fingers were crossed the buffalo would show up late in the afternoon and maybe the lions too.
We returned to the springs later in the afternoon and everything was quiet. Nothing. Nada. A little disappointed but still in the middle of a really wild Africa.
Back at camp we cooked up a delicious spaghetti with basil and garlic tomato sauce, crashed early and fell asleep to a quiet night. No lions roaring. They had moved on to where?
Recently a private camp was established in the relative area and they constructed a huge watering hole which has attracted the buffalo which attracts the lions. The evidence is anecdotal but we have been told by those in the know that the dynamic at Chitake is changing. We hope not.
Our experience in Chitake was amazing regardless of the lack of lions. We are lucky that we experienced this faw wilderness while it is still relatively low level touristed.
Another sunrise and we bid Robson farewell and made our 3 hour journey to Kariba.
