Arba Minch to Lake Lagano and Abiatta-Shala National Park then back to Addis Ababa

We departed Arba Minch on November 4th and made our way north to a resort on the shores of Lake Lagano. The lake was very brown and the scenery was limited so we didn’t take any pictures. We spent the night at the lake and then made our way to Abiatta-Shala National Park which had some beautiful views of lakes Abiatta and Shala.

Shala lake being a soda lake and it is the deepest lake in Ethiopia. It can host thousands of flamingos but when we were there there were only a few dozen.

The park itself had a population of Warthogs, Ostrich and Gazelle as well as some thermal hot springs.

Finishing up at the park we made our way back to Addis Ababa for a short overnight stay before heading north to Lalibela. We traveled 2,376 kms through southern Ethiopia in an uncomfortable Toyota Landcruiser with our driver Sophy. It was great adventure. Thank you Sophy for getting us back to Addis safe and sound.

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Turmi to Arba Minch and the Dorze tribe

It was a great drive back to Arba Minch. Rather than backtracking we took a different route that was far more scenic and a little more adventurous. We drove narrow gravel mountainside passes, crossed a couple of rivers and drove along dry riverbeds. It was a nice change from potholes and cows and goats.

When we arrived in Arba we took a left turn and headed way up into the mountains to visit a local Dorze tribe. Dorze means “weaver” and the tribe is known for their intricate weaving skills for both cloth and the large beehive shaped huts they live in. It was a bone wracking drive and we probably ascended about 1500 metres in one hour and we thought “this better be worth it”. Well, it was a setup. We entered the “village” and in front of us was a beautiful 6 meter hut intricately woven with bamboo with the front resembling an elephant. They are the most unique traditional structures in Africa.

DSC09161 (2)Inside looked comfortable with a guest bed and several chairs and sleeping quarters for the family and separate quarters for the livestock.

Outside we were treated to a display of bread making using fermented enset or false banana.

We then moved on for a taste of the locally made gin called Areki but as we were walking over to the “bar” we noticed several smaller weaved huts with numbers on them. To our surprise and disdain this place was a tourist lodge! We/I drank several shots of Areki each time making a “traditional” toast and were then met by the lodge owner who proceeded to try to sell us weaved cloth for the benefit of the community yada, yada, yada. We’d been had. We told him in no uncertain terms we didn’t appreciate his pressure selling tactics and immediately left ticked off that we were once again considered to be sucker tourists with lots of money and no brains.

 

Turmi to Omorate, a visit with the Dassenech tribe and then back to Turmii

We arrived in Turmi late afternoon November 1st after another scenic drive and stayed at Buska Lodge which is located a few kms outside of town. Turmi is home to many of the Hamer people and although just a speck of a town it is the largest settlement of Hamer district. It is known for it’s Monday market where anyone and everyone in the Omo Valley descends to take in the colourful weekly event but alas, it was Friday when we arrived and we would be departing on Sunday so we missed all of the market action.

The next morning we headed out to Omorate, about 25 kms from the Kenyan border to visit the Dasenech tribe, a pastoralist tribe living along the Omo River and are Ethiopia’s most southern people. Interestingly the Dasenech have a natural antipathy to eating fish. Eating fish is really a last resort in times of crisis. We crossed to west side of the Omo River in a dugout boat and walked about 500 metres to a traditional village comprised of small, flimsy domed huts that are reminiscent of the structures built by other desert pastoralists in the Sahara and Kalahari deserts.

The people were friendly and welcoming and had a small crafts section set up for tourist outside of the fenced village. No one hassled you inside the village which made for a far more enjoyable experience.

All of the villages we have visited have a village pub for the men to sit around drinking a really terrible looking home made beer. I was tempted to try it but my stomach suggested otherwise.

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We wandered around the village interacting with the villagers. They were going about their daily routine and we felt completely comfortable and welcome in their village.

Shortly before leaving many of the villagers broke out into dance. The style is similar to that of the Masai Mara where the men jump quite high and the women bob to the rhythm of jumping. Joyce and I were both pulled into the dance circle to try our moves. We all had a good laugh.

We crossed back the river a stopped at a little riverside cafe for a cold drink and were entertained by a troop of Black and White Colobus monkeys.

On our journey back to Turmi there were many termite mounds lining the side of the road. This is not unusual however these termite mounds were not actually mounds but spires. Not sure of the reason for this but they were quite unique.

DSC09123In the afternoon back in Turmi there was a “jumping of the bulls” ceremony which is a rite of passage for young Hamer boy’s transitioning into manhood. The boys must run across the backs of seven castrated bulls which are covered in dung (to make them slippery) without falling. If they fall more than four times they must wait another year before trying again to reach their manhood. Part of the ritual involves young girls being whipped with birch sticks. The women asks a boy to whip them on their backs and the boy obliges. It is believed the greater the pain the higher level of submission and loyalty they are showing to the boy and the scars left on their bodies are a symbol of the loyalty they are to receive from the men in return. The idea is at some point in the future the girl may need the young’s mans help and will show him her scars as if obligating him to provide the required assistance.

DSC09127We knew this would be happening at the ceremony and had no desire to see women getting whipped by men. We have seen the huge welts on the women’s backs and regardless of this being a cultural tradition, it’s probably time to stop this rather barbaric practice. We talked to several tourists who did attend and their observation was there were more tourists in attendance than tribal members and at 800 Birr admittance fee, it would seem this has become more of a cash grab than the continuation of a centuries old practice although as mentioned in our previous post, good or bad, their livelihoods are in turmoil and survival and cash is a strong motivator to continue to draw in the tourists.

We had a relaxing afternoon and then headed out for a short visit to a small local Hamer village. The village probably had a dozen or so family homes spread out over a fairly large area and the only people around were women and children and one or two older men. During the day the boys and men take their goats out to pasture and return in the evening but most stay away from their homes for long periods of time. As we were leaving the goats were making their way back home but no men or boys were in sight.

Jinka to Turmi

Departing Jinka we headed south and then west through Mago National Park to visit the Mursi tribes who were relocated by the government and moved from the park to the surrounding hills and mountains outside of the western edge of the park. Ten years ago and even up to three years ago the park had healthy populations of lion, leopard, elephant, bush buck, waterbuck and several other mammal species. Because of severe poaching and hunting by the Mursi the few animals that survived have moved to Kenya so there is virtually no wildlife left except for a few guinea fowl and Dik-dik, a small antelope that lives in the bushlands of southern and eastern Africa. The views from the mountains heading down into African savanna was spectacular but somehow sterile.

The Mursi women are known for their lip plates. The larger the lip plate the more attractive for the women and the more dowry for the family. After ascending the hills outside of the park we turned onto the first side road and headed to an “authentic Mursi village”. Before entering the village we were told was it would cost us 200 Birr for each camera and we could take as many pictures as we like. Fair enough I guess so we entered the village and were met by armed militia milling around, Russian Kalashnikovs hung over their shoulders. We were later told the villagers get quite drunk later in the afternoon and the militias are there to keep the peace. I’m really not so sure about that. The village seemed to be set up exclusively for tourists. There were thatched huts scattered around a mud field, the women sat around making lip plates and everyone tried to sell you these painted plates. There was a large parking lot just outside the village fences and there didn’t seem to be any¬† indication of a functional village. Our guess is the people in the village make their way to this set up village every day to sell their souvenirs and then make their way back to the actual village(s) they live in. It was a set up and we could see it for what it was as soon as we entered the compound. Later in the evening we met a fellow from Poland who did the same drive to the area but rather than take the first turn he went further and did visit a real Mursi village. He said it was full of cow shit and flies and was not a pretty sight. We would rather have seen that than the tourist trap we saw. It was a four hour round trip journey to make the visit.

The lower Omo River Valley has recently been damed and the filling of the reservoir behind Gibe III dam on the Omo River is holding back flows needed by some 200,000 indigenous people in southern Ethiopia and northern Kenya to sustain their food production and livelihoods. Then people of the Omo Valley rely on the natural flood cycles of the river for sustainable practices of flood-recession farming, fishing and livestock grazing. Desperate because this has curtailed their harvesting and grazing the area tribes have moved into Mago National Park which is creating conflict with the soldiers charged with protecting the park and the little wildlife that is left. There have been reports of deaths of these pastoralists.

Tourism is helping by supplying another revenue stream but with tourism comes serious challenges to balance a way of life without selling out to the almighty dollar. The example of the Mursi people that we saw is one that should be stopped immediately. No one should have to sell their dignity and be put on display for foreigners for a few dollars. I don’t know the solution but I do know mass tourism will only make matters worse for these people.

A little bothered by the whole set up we headed back through the park and made our way to Turmi.

 

Konso to Jinka

Today we set out for what we hoped would be a shorter drive to our next stop, Jinka but before leaving town we made sure to visit the local market which is held on Mondays and Thursdays. The market is attended by four tribes from the area, the Hamer, Ari, Konso and Benna. Wild honey, fresh vegetables, shoes and of course the tourist souvenirs are the order of the day. About 500 metres from the market the men have a cattle and goat market where the real entertainment is watching the men trying to get their goats into slings and then hung on scales to determine the asking price. The goats, although fairly docile animals don’t particularly like to be strung up.

The drive to Jinka was scenic and chaotic as usual. The road is good for a short distance and then littered with potholes. If you aren’t negotiating the pot holes then you’re negotiating the constant herds of cattle and goats.

Before checking into our hotel in Jinka we paid a short visit to a local Ari village. The day had been very rainy so the walking paths were quite muddy and slippery. The village was quite spread out so we only spent a short time visiting.

 

Arba Minch to Konso

Today was a very interesting day. We were originally supposed do a two hour boat trip on lake Chamo to see crocodiles and hippos. After such a long day yesterday we had absolutely no desire to spend another 10 hours travelling so we ditched the boat ride (we’ve seen many hippos and crocs in our travels) and headed directly to Konso.

We arrived at 10:30 am and had three hours to relax before heading out to visit Gamule Konso Village, another UNESCO World Heritage site. The village is approximately 800 years old and is known for their wooden statues known as wakas which are erected in honor of dead heroes and respected members of the community. The village is circled and fortified by stone walls, some up to 5 metres tall. The Gamule village has three circular walls. As the community grew outside of the original wall, another wall was built to encircle the outside communities. It was an incredible site to see.

Before ending our day we visited Gesergio Rocks, also known as natural New York village. Erosion is an amazing artist.

Hawassa to Arba Minch

I forgot to mention in my previous post that the roads, so far, in Ethiopia are almost as bad as those in Madagascar and Zambia, sometimes just as bad so travelling relatively short distances takes time but the scenery is beautiful so it makes up for the bad roads.

After our hippo cruise we departed Hawassa and backtracked through Shashanane and made our way to Senkelle Swayne’s Hartebeest Sanctuary where we picked up a park ranger and went looking for the Swayne’s Hartebeest which is endemic to Ethiopia. The sanctuary is 58 sq.km and consists of wide open grasslands. The sanctuary, located in the Oromia region is dedicated to the protection of the Hartebeest which at one time numbered 3,000 animals but has dwindled to about 800 due to poaching.

After a total of about 10 hours of driving covering less than 300 km we reached Arda Minch just after sunset. Arba Minch is bordered by mountains and is home to two of Ethiopia’s largest Rift Valley lakes, Lake Chamo and Lake Abaya. Our lodge was perched high on a hillside and had amazing views of the lakes and the distant Nechisar National Park. We were disappointed we missed the view of the lakes with the sunset behind us but we did get sunrise views in the morning.

Our original plan was to take a two hour boat trip to view the abundant crocodile population in Lake Chamo but we have seen many crocs so decided to cut this portion out so we could hopefully arrive at our next destination before sunset and with some time to unwind from what we knew would be another long day of driving. It’s not just the condition of the roads that are a challenge. Some roads aren’t too bad but the roads are used as a walkway for herds of cattle and flocks goats and there are literally thousands of goats and cattle that block every step of the way along your journey.

 

Addis to Hawassa

We arrived into Addis Ababa on the 26th and had an early evening. The next day we prepped for the next 9 days of driving, relaxed a little and then headed out for some very excellent traditional food and entertainment at a restaurant nearby. The food and entertainment was superb!

Before departing in the morning we needed to get a SIM card. When we arrived in Addis we figured we had all day Sunday to look after this and save time on Monday when we were heading off to Hawassa. The only telecom provider in Ethiopia is Ethio Telecom (government owned) and they are not open on Sundays. Damn! We were picked up by our Driver, Sophie, at 8:45 Monday morning and off we went to the Ethio Telecom office to get our communications lifeline organized. It was your typical government run organization and after 45 minutes of discussing our needs, a photo of me for their records, passport info and only 4 days of data (data plans work from the 1st of the month to the last day of the month, not for one month from the day you start) I left the office with 1Gb of data and was assured their network was 4G. Traffic was horrendous and this city of 7 million is very spread out and suffering the same auto pollution and traffic issues (chaos) as most African cities. It was about 10:45 when we finally hit the outskirts of town.

We had three stops planned before our final stop for the night in Hawassa.

Tiya, an ancient stelae (grave marker) site and UNESCO World Heritage Site. Adadi Maryam, an ancient rock-hewn church and Melka Kunture, a prehistoric tool making site. Luck wasn’t on our side. Melka Kunture was closed for “renovations” and a large funeral was being held at Adadi Maryam so we couldn’t visit that site so we had a short 1/2 visit at Tiya.

We arrived at our hotel just before sunset. We had a very late lunch so after we checked in we had a beer and some nuts, skipped dinner and decided to crash early. Hawassa is located on the shores of Lake Hawassa and our hotel room balcony had a nice sunset and early morning views of the lake.

The next morning we drove a short distance to the local fish market to check out the catch of the day then proceeded to a boat launch for a one hour “hippo viewing” tour on lake Hawassa, saw a few hippo heads and then headed back to start our journey Arba Minch, our next stop.

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Next stop, Ethiopia

Wow, our seven weeks in Madagascar sure flew by but we are looking forward to our next and last three weeks exploring Ethiopia before heading home to Vancouver. We departed Antananarivo October 26th for a 4 1/2 hour flight to Addis Ababa. Tomorrow we head off for the southern Ethiopia part of our travels.

Some final thoughts on Madagascar

Madagascar is the 2nd largest Island country and the 4th largest island in the world. It has a population of about 26 million, French and Malagasy are the official languages and it is one of the poorest countries on earth. Since the arrival of humans about 2,350 years ago, Madagascar has lost approximately 90% of its original forest cover with a conservative estimate of 40% since the 1950’s to 2000. Madagascar rates as one of the unhappiest places on earth with almost 70% living under the poverty line of $1.00 per day. The official minimum wage is 160,000 Ariary/month which works out to approximately $2.00 CAD/day.

The two largest cities are first, Antananarivo, the capital, and second, Antsirabe. We drove (inched our way) through both. As mentioned several times, when you drive through a town big or small, you drive through chaos. All towns generally have very narrow pot holed streets and markets line both sides. There are rarely any sidewalks and the roads are filled with pedestrians, tuk tuks, trucks of every imaginable size, motorcycles and bicycles loaded to the hilt with death defying bundles of everything under the sun. What we did observe the vast majority of the time was the lack of garbage. We think the Malagasy people take pride in cleanliness and this was very obvious in comparison to countries such as India, Jordon, Zambia, Tanzania etc. etc. We especially noticed the lack of plastic bag garbage. There was essentially none and it is probably due to fact that practically everyone uses reusable straw or cloth bags. There is a lesson to be learned here for the many countries choking on plastic bag waste.

Most, if not all of the lodges we stayed at were french run and/or owned and we found that if you didn’t speak french, then be prepared to be seriously frustrated. It seemed if you didn’t speak french, you were almost invisible. This experience harkens back to the late 70’s when I first visited France. If you don’t speak the language then you are shit out of luck, period. We found this to be very challenging and maddening. Even if I spoke the little french I know and explained I spoke very little french I would be met with blank stares and/or a rapid reply in french. This was especially true when trying to order lunch or dinner from a menu. To be fair there were a couple of places where, if the servers weren’t sure of what you wanted they would go and ask for help from someone who spoke a little english but this was rare. Interestingly I would say the language challenge was next to being on par with the challenges we faced driving. It really was that difficult. Maybe everyone else in the world who travels to Madagascar speaks some french but I seriously doubt it.

Although we know that most of the forests of Madagascar have disappeared, the scenery was still spectacular and one can only imagine how it was, like most places in the world one can assume, way back when. What was quite striking though was the amount of erosion happening throughout the country. The primary surface cover is a clay/sand mixture and vast gorges of every size dot the landscape. This has led to serious siltification in many of the seaside areas with the rain washing tonnes of clay and sand down the barren hillsides into swollen rivers and then on to the Indian Ocean.

Vast areas of hillside have been terraced to allow for the growing of rice and other foodstuffs. If you didn’t know you were in Madagascar you would be excused for thinking you were in Bali, China or some other eastern/southeastern country. Rice is a main staple here and they can’t grow enough. Madagascar leads by far the major rice growing countries in terms of volume. The average person consumes about 120kg/year compared to china at 77kg/year. Only Vietnam eats more rice at 144 kg per inhabitant. Some of the first people who came to Madagascar were from Indonesia and Malaysia more than 1,000 years ago with rice cultivation starting around 1540.

The facial features of the Malagasy people are distinctly different than mainland Africa and reflects the asian influence although the food didn’t tend to reflect the spices you would associate with this influence. Breakfast is heavily french influenced so be prepared to eat primarily bread, croissants, butter and jam and occasionally a half brown banana or over ripe mango and if you were really lucky, a few pieces of soft pineapple. Of course there are eggs but an omelette is essentially eggs beaten in a bowl and then fried. If you are lucky to have them “avec fromage” then you will have a small thin slice or two melted on top of the fried eggs. Don’t even bother asking for over easy and the eggs were usually fried in a heavy oil so they tended to be oily/greasy. We never saw any bacon. There was the odd time you could order sausage and it was okay but you couldn’t help wonder in the back of your mind how old they were. Lunches tended to be cheese or omelette sandwiches served on a foot long or longer loaf of french bread. No butter, no mayonnaise, just bread and cheese or bread and fried egg. Sometimes the bread was fresh. Of course we had the occasional decent lunch but not very often. Dinners weren’t too bad and the odd pizza or pasta dish were a nice change from the tough zebu meat served throughout the country. Through our travels and the many cases of the “cramps and trots” we’ve experienced we have become a little less daring in our food adventures so I am certain we missed out on some very delicious and local roadside stall food so I will not criticize what I don’t know. I’m only speaking of what was available at the average mid-priced accommodation that we stayed at most of the time with the exception of a few lodges mentioned in previous posts. We used to have stomachs of steel, me more so than Joyce so I guess our gut biome is a little less resistant to all of the stuff we’ve thrown at it over the years and sometimes it rebels.

The roads…What roads? My guess is probably 10% of the roads we drove were good enough to hit 70-80 km/hr without the risk of surprise potholes. Otherwise they are bad, very bad and you are lucky to average 40 km/hr. Most seem like the government has just given up on maintaining them and they are rapidly turning into treacherous, dangerous and next to un-drivable routes that the people have no choice but to use. The roads are also very narrow and in many areas very winding with tight steep curves where I found myself straining to look to either see what is coming up and over a hill or around a hairpin curve. Most vehicles travel in the middle of the road, large trucks especially so you are often gripping the wheel and trying not to go off of the side of the road while trying to avoid collisions and the gaping holes and cracks that line the roadside. The roads are full of pedestrians, bicycles, zebu carts, and flatbed carts loaded with whatever you can imagine being pushed and pulled by boys and men of all ages. The bottom line is they are very hazardous and require your complete attention and concentration.

The Malagasy people…The people are generally warm and smiling but often there seemed to be an undertone of sadness or the recognition of a life they have little or no opportunity to escape. This seemed to be somewhat regional however I can only guess why. Some areas seemed more prosperous and were generally developed farming areas or on the tourist routes and the people seemed happier although through many of the poorest rural villages we drove through we were met with smiles and waves. Maybe the poorest villages way off the beaten track with no cell phones and little outside influence are more content than those being influenced by social media. Thats my guess.

Madagascar’s tourism is developing and the forecast was for 500,000 visitors in 2019. We’re not sure if they’ll hit that number but without a doubt, tourism is helping the locals, their wellbeing and the economy however we think that without fairly substantial infrastructure investment, the current situation will definitely become more strained and could act as a deterrent to further growth.

Madagascar is a fascinating country with wide regional variations and we think the best way to see the country is by either a self drive 4×4 or with a hired driver and guide. We chose to self drive and loved every minute of it (almost). Yes it was challenging but we, at 61 and 63 years old are not quite ready to give up the freedom to self drive in countries where it is possible to so.

We had time on our hands to self drive where many didn’t so our hats are off to them for at least getting into a 4×4 and traversing whatever parts of the country they could. The rides they had were just as bumpy and thrilling as ours!