We reluctantly departed Mucheni on the 29th, but we were definitely looking forward to our next two nights at Chitake Springs. This is lion and buffalo country, and much has been written and recorded about this unique habitat in one of the wildest and most untamed parts of Africa.
As with Mucheni, we needed to book this site a year in advance—Chitake more so because there are only two public sites available and one tour-operated site.
We were initially hoping to book Chitake #1, as we read this was the best site. However, our site, #2, was a five-minute walk to the source of the spring, while you had to drive to the springs from #1. So, in our opinion, #2 was the best.
We hired an armed park ranger for our two-night stay and did this for two reasons. One, there were supposed to be many lions in the area, and two, you are not allowed to walk in the area unless accompanied by an armed guide or ranger. To drive to the springs, about two minutes, would require packing up our bush camper, which would be way too much hassle.
We arrived at our camp around 1:00 pm and met our ranger.
His name was Robson. Seriously.
Before we could get organized, Robson informed us that there were two lions nearby. So, in +33°C heat, we trekked off down into the dry bed of the Chitake River, crossed the muddy water created by the spring, clambered up the banks on the other side, sweating profusely and already feeling dehydrated.
We maybe saw the lions way off in the distance hightailing it into the thick bush.
Once back at our site and feeling lightheaded in the heat, we set up camp, had a bite to eat and then took a short walk to the “Fig Tree,” a beautiful shaded area on the upper banks of the river overlooking the spring source and the huge worn path on the opposite side used by the buffalo to access the water from the spring.
The buffalo weren’t there, but the riverbed was full of elephants—probably 25 or more—impala, warthogs, baboons and an array of birdlife. It was a beautiful sight to behold.
Once back at camp, we stoked our fire and cooked my famous sliced potato, onion, garlic and butter foil-wrapped concoction, and reheated delicious beef sausage that I had cooked the night before in Mucheni. We topped this off with canned baked beans and a side of cold beer and white wine for your quintessential camping grub.
Waking at sunrise every day and sitting around watching wildlife takes its toll, so we hit the sheets early and, after a short while, listened to the chorus of many lions roaring in the distance throughout the rest of the night.
Sunrise and…
A cup of Nescafe or two and a walk to the fig tree brought us into view of absolutely nothing. No elephants, no impala, nada, zero. The wind was blowing, and it was chilly outside, and our ranger figured it was maybe too cold for the animals. So, we sat for a short while and walked back to camp for breakfast, which we shared with a couple of very unafraid crested francolins.
At around 9:00 a.m., just after finishing up our breakfast, Robson cocked his ear and told us the buffalo had arrived at the spring, so off we rushed back to the fig tree, chairs in hand. This is what Chitake is all about, minus the lions.
They stayed at the springs for about 45 minutes and then departed in a cloud of dust, up the well-worn banks and back into the forest.
After lunch we hiked up to an area with excellent views and a large swath of ancient and huge Baobab trees.
On our way back to camp in the early afternoon, we stopped at the fig tree to see if there was any action at the springs. There wasn’t, but we did meet some South Africans who had been at Chitake #1 for a few days, and we were told stories about the lions that were staying right beside our camp with a recent kill a day earlier, and some of the lion action they witnessed from the fig tree.
Our fingers were crossed that the buffalo would show up late in the afternoon, and maybe the lions too.
We returned to the springs later in the afternoon, and everything was quiet. Nothing. Nada. A little disappointed, but still in the middle of a really wild Africa.
Back at camp, we cooked up delicious spaghetti with basil and garlic tomato sauce, crashed early and fell asleep to a quiet night. No lions roaring. They had moved on to where?
Recently, a private camp was established in the relative area, and they constructed a huge watering hole, which has attracted the buffalo, which attract the lions. The evidence is anecdotal, but we have been told by those in the know that the dynamic at Chitake is changing. We hope not.
Our experience in Chitake was amazing, regardless of the lack of lions. We are lucky that we experienced this raw wilderness while it is still relatively low-level touristed.
Another sunrise, and we bid Robson farewell and made our three-hour journey to Kariba.
